May in Tokyo

Hi all,

Hope things have been going well. Sharing an update from Nagao, who has been living in Tokyo for just about a month now.

For all that has been happening, our neighborhood has been pretty calm. As reported infection figures began to drop, we definitely noticed a growing number of activity outside, with more shops open and for longer. Weather has been pretty hot, though we've been experiences periods of rain that brought temperatures down again.

Nagao's been continuing his early morning walking routine, and has been growing more ambitious with his distance goals, even reaching more than 5 miles a day on sometimes.

To him, the Tokyo that Nagao knew in the late 1960's is like a different universe from the metropolis that Tokyo is now. Everything from the buildings, transport infrastructure, population, cleanliness and food are products of the massive changes made over the city's 70+ year post-war history. Nagao's been trying new routes to see parts of Tokyo he hasn't seen since Neil and Buzz landed on the moon.

Here're some photos taken from his walks:

The (in?)famous Nakagin Capsule Tower. An ambitious take from 1970's Japan on the future of living. Each 'capsule', individual habitations units with a shower, bed, and all necessary living accommodations, were interchangeable. Unfortunately, while the building is still habitable, obvious decay has taken over almost every visible angle of a vision that may have been too ahead of its time.

A dock of what once used to be the Tsukiji Fish Market. Maybe you've heard of it on the news, or on Jiro Dreams of Sushi, or from Nagao himself from his days working in Tokyo. Once arguably the largest fish market ever seen, Tsukiji once provided quality fish from Japan and abroad for many restaurants, groceries and individuals alike. Now, with the markets now relocated to Toyosu, the large swath of land that once was filled with stalls, vendors and bustling trucks is now empty and rusting away. The government has been quick to demolish old unused buildings and pave new roads to better connect communities on either side of the market. With so much land in such a prime location of Tokyo, it'll be interesting to see what new things will emerge here. Until then, what's left can serve as a memory of a time both important and past.

Tokyo Tower. A world famous landmark, it requires very little introduction or description. While the new Skytree is definitely the taller and sleeker successor, the original Tokyo Tower, in its iconic colors, is still worth the visit.

View of Tsukishima from the Sumida River by St. Luke's hospital. This photo doesn't do the sheer number and grandeur of Tsukishima's towers, but what's equally as interesting and compelling is how the island came to be. Surprisingly, Tsukishima and its neighboring islands are almost entirely man-made. I highly recommend you give its history a read. It may come as a surprise to find out how much of Tokyo is actually quite literally new.

Road near Shiodome and Ginza, early May. Empty roads like these in a city like Tokyo during broad daylight is in a way beautiful but also harrowing when we really think about the circumstances. Shots like these really may only come once in a lifetime.

Kabukiza. As the name suggests, you'd find the best performances of Kabuki here. A historic cultural center, Kabukiza has seen some interesting architectural changes over its history. In a way, while the art itself is an unchanging, important driver of history, the hall it has been performed at over the years has been a product of the changing history around it.







That's it for this month, talk to you guys soon!

- akira